Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: -49.29272, -73.03793
FA: Bernard Amy and partners (France), February 1968.
Page Views: 1,302 total · 25/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 24, 2021
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

A mix of quality rock, icy corners, and exposed snow. The crux is in the first pitch where corner systems don't get a great deal of sun and can be slippery even in good conditions. The final pitch features excellent pockets on an incredible arete with great exposure. Conditions on this route are subject to variance through the season and across different years. 

Location Suggest change

Approach from below the glacier between Mojon Rojo and l'S, route starts in a tiny gully that turns into a dihedral before transitioning to face climbing. Depending on the season, the middle pitches will involve easy scrambling through steep snowy blocks. After crossing that section the climb flattens out before crossing a ridge and heading up the left arete of the final pyramid. 

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to 2, one 3. Extra webbing/cord in case the ones at rappels are funky.

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