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Cara Este

5.10- Easy Snow, Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.2 from 11 votes
FA: Bernard Amy and partners (France), February 1968.
International > S America > Argentina > Santa Cruz > Chalten Massif > Cerro Fitz Roy… > Aguja de I'S

Description

A mix of quality rock, icy corners, and exposed snow. The crux is in the first pitch where corner systems don't get a great deal of sun and can be slippery even in good conditions. The final pitch features excellent pockets on an incredible arete with great exposure. Conditions on this route are subject to variance through the season and across different years. 

Location

Approach from below the glacier between Mojon Rojo and l'S, route starts in a tiny gully that turns into a dihedral before transitioning to face climbing. Depending on the season, the middle pitches will involve easy scrambling through steep snowy blocks. After crossing that section the climb flattens out before crossing a ridge and heading up the left arete of the final pyramid. 

Protection

Doubles to 2, one 3. Extra webbing/cord in case the ones at rappels are funky.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route start. The left-facing dihedral (on the left) is the standard route. The right-facing dihedral (right of the standard start) is the Voie-Fisher variation
[Hide Photo] Route start. The left-facing dihedral (on the left) is the standard route. The right-facing dihedral (right of the standard start) is the Voie-Fisher variation
From the base. Standard route goes up the big obvious brown corner at photo right
[Hide Photo] From the base. Standard route goes up the big obvious brown corner at photo right
pitch 2 or 3 after exiting the dihedral
[Hide Photo] pitch 2 or 3 after exiting the dihedral
Summit tower, after scrambling the middle section
[Hide Photo] Summit tower, after scrambling the middle section