Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
GPS: 44.30615, 15.47534
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,093 total · 19/month
Shared By: Russell S on Aug 25, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Steven Lucarelli

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

P1 (5a) - Exposed climbing up classic Paklenica grooves. Two bolts mark a slightly hanging belay stance. Scary exposure can be avoided my climbing right, then traversing over to the bolts for the anchor.

P2 (4a) - Super fun, easy climbing up to anchors.

P3 (4b) - From the anchors, angle right and up the crack. You'll get to a good stance with an old sling hung between two bolts. Put a directional here, then easy downclimb a few meters to the right, where you'll find two bolts for anchors hidden around the corner.

P4 (5b) - Classic chimney climbing. Stem your way up until you hit the anchors. Slightly runout here, so this is where a few 2/3 cams or a set of tricams might help. Things get real very quickly, but don't let your guard down till you pull onto the slab at the top. 

P5 (4b) - Follow the bolts up to the right. The guidebook rates this pitch 4b, but it's a little harder and runout, and a little heady on lead. Plus this pitch crosses with a 6a midway, with bolts heading up a vertical crack. Don't follow those, but rather continue angling up and to the right around a bend. If you want to move a bit faster, combine this pitch with the next one.

P6 (3/4a) - Really just a few moves up a small face to bolts. The guidebook says rappel from here down the gully to a tree, but really it's just a small downclimb to set up for the final pitch. 

P7 (4c) - Another huge chimney. Beware there are no bolts here, but the route can be protected with 2-3 cams/tricams and a long sling or two. Not difficult climbing overall.

For the descent, keep your climbing shoes on for a bit and head past the top anchors, up and to the right. You'll see a cairn marking the way toward a steep descent fully. 

Location Suggest change

After the steel cables, keep traversing the cliff to the right. You'll see some bolts up a small 10-12 foot rock gully. There is a triangle plaque marking the start of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts protect the more difficult sections. A few small cams or tricams and 2-3 slings will serve you well to supplement.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments