Centralni Kamin
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.30615, 15.47534 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,093 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Russell S on Aug 25, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steven Lucarelli |
Description
P1 (5a) - Exposed climbing up classic Paklenica grooves. Two bolts mark a slightly hanging belay stance. Scary exposure can be avoided my climbing right, then traversing over to the bolts for the anchor.
P2 (4a) - Super fun, easy climbing up to anchors.
P3 (4b) - From the anchors, angle right and up the crack. You'll get to a good stance with an old sling hung between two bolts. Put a directional here, then easy downclimb a few meters to the right, where you'll find two bolts for anchors hidden around the corner.
P4 (5b) - Classic chimney climbing. Stem your way up until you hit the anchors. Slightly runout here, so this is where a few 2/3 cams or a set of tricams might help. Things get real very quickly, but don't let your guard down till you pull onto the slab at the top.
P5 (4b) - Follow the bolts up to the right. The guidebook rates this pitch 4b, but it's a little harder and runout, and a little heady on lead. Plus this pitch crosses with a 6a midway, with bolts heading up a vertical crack. Don't follow those, but rather continue angling up and to the right around a bend. If you want to move a bit faster, combine this pitch with the next one.
P6 (3/4a) - Really just a few moves up a small face to bolts. The guidebook says rappel from here down the gully to a tree, but really it's just a small downclimb to set up for the final pitch.
P7 (4c) - Another huge chimney. Beware there are no bolts here, but the route can be protected with 2-3 cams/tricams and a long sling or two. Not difficult climbing overall.
For the descent, keep your climbing shoes on for a bit and head past the top anchors, up and to the right. You'll see a cairn marking the way toward a steep descent fully.



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