All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Mammoth Peak Alcove

Northeast Arete

Name: Northeast Arete
Rating: 2.7

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Mammoth Peak Alcove

L › R R › L A › Z

	Edges and Optimism T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Northeast Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Respite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Smashfinger's Big Day Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Smokey Bear Effect, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	37.86805, -119.26762
FA:	Andrew Hancox, Matt Bernstein
Page Views:	573 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Andrew Hancox on Aug 17, 2021
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Pitch 1 takes the gully right of buttress up a short chimney and to a nice ledge with 2-3” gear a few feet above in horizontal crack above not seen from ledge 80ft 5.9

Pitch 2 starts right above stance following the arete to right side of roof. Place thin fingers gear and clip a bolt along the way. At roof clip piton above and traverse under piton to follow the arete with thin hands/finger sized crack and a fist crack to reach a gear belay at a stance next to a chimney. Belay takes fingers-fist size gear. 5.10 150ft.

Pitch 3 starts by heading towards chimney out right with a hand crack next to it. Follow this then stepping left through a couple bulges then trend up and right towards an alcove with a bolted anchor. 5.10a 100ft

Descent: Rap from P3 anchors with 70m rope down and climbers left to another set of anchors on knob covered face. Rappel again down and climbers left beside roof to slab apron and anchors. Rap to ground from here.