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Magic Eraser
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British X
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Routes in Inner Marker
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Betty Crocker, Martha Stewart, & Me T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Life on a Wedge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lightning Never Strikes Twice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Eraser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Magic Marker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Regenerator S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steelin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chris Pelczarski & Steve Johnson, July 8 2021 |
| Page Views: | 303 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tater Tot on Jul 13, 2021 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This is a route that was climbed thinking I was getting on the Conn route on Inner Marker having not studied the guide book closely enough. A short crack that is harder than it looks leads to a long completely unprotected arete with several steep and difficult sections. It is the arete that runs parallel to the Thunder Road arete.
The route ends on top of a flake-type sub summit that could also be reached from higher up in the Conn gully with a little scrambling.
OF NOTE: This route is dangerous for the FOLLOWER. On the FA, Steve did not follow me because a fall by the follower on the arete would result in a huge swing since there is no pro.
Location
Start up the easy 5.0 Conn gully on the Northeast. Part way up you'll notice a crack that appears to be around 5.6 on your left that will take you out to the arete. Climb the unprotected and dangerous 5.8 face to the summit. One prominent crystal did break on me on the FA.
NSR off the top with partner as a counter weight. I was able to rap down and retrieve my gear without a follow.
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