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Regenerator
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | Dave Rone, Trent Slichter |
Page Views: | 1,343 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Dave Rone on Sep 2, 2012 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Regenerator is a nice route that incorporates a variety of features and movement, including some power moves on ledges and edges, and steep, delicate, crystal climbing(the crux). One of the cool things about the route, however, is that you have lots of opportunities to rest and 'regenerate'.
Crank onto the ledge at the start, then work your way up the shoulder. The first mini-crux is getting past the third bolt.
A fun mantle comes next, followed by easy climbing to the bulge near the top of the route, where you'll encounter the balancy crux. Pinch a couple small, sharp crystals, work your feet up, then reach up and left to bigger holds. As you work your way through the crux, try to avoid standing on the two small, sharp crystals you used at first. It would be unfortunate to break them off!
After the crux moves, easy climbing takes you to the top.
Crank onto the ledge at the start, then work your way up the shoulder. The first mini-crux is getting past the third bolt.
A fun mantle comes next, followed by easy climbing to the bulge near the top of the route, where you'll encounter the balancy crux. Pinch a couple small, sharp crystals, work your feet up, then reach up and left to bigger holds. As you work your way through the crux, try to avoid standing on the two small, sharp crystals you used at first. It would be unfortunate to break them off!
After the crux moves, easy climbing takes you to the top.
Location
Regenerator is about 50' left of Lightning Never Strikes Twice, on the Southeast side of Middle Marker. Take the easy trail that divides the Emancipation and Middle Marker formations. From the trail, look to the left for a left-rising shoulder of rock, to the left of the obvious crack system of Lightning.
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