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Routes in Old Crusty
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Bar fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bemis T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bolts in my Pocket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheap scotch T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Tips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kipper Kisses T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Militant Buddhist T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Crusty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Silver Fox T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South of No North T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toto T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05953, -109.52907 |
| FA: | Alex Garhart, Dan Garman |
| Page Views: | 602 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Athena on May 3, 2021 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Probably one of the best routes Old Crusty has to offer. Start up the left-facing corner as it gradually widens to off width. Once you are above your #4, you should be able to start placing small gear in the crack to the left. Switch into the face crack on your left whenever you feel you are able to while keeping it at 10+. Cruise to the chains.
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