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> Pillars of Pain
Acid Rock
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Pillars of Pain
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Acid Rock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mata Hari T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Secret Agent Man T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Super Spy T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01101, -116.16742 |
| FA: | Mike Lechlinski, Gib Lewis, Charles Cole, Marius Morsted, Dean Fidelman, 11/1979. |
| Page Views: | 524 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Apr 18, 2021 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start up a steep hand crack on the side of the tall narrow pillar from inside the corridor. Get onto a ledge, then up the main pillar face past horizontals. 3 bolts, a fixed pin, and supplemental cams protect a thin crease and the crux finish. 3-bolt anchor with hangers near the lip but no rap hardware. Rap down the gap on NW side via bolted rap chains atop West Face Route, between Pillars 2 and 3, to touch down on the parking lot side. Step way back to pull the rope to clear the big chock boulders.
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