Normal Route

This classic line follows a series of weaknesses up the NW corner of the Dent. Much of the route follows large hemp ropes that can be used for aid (and the bolts that secure the ropes can be used for protection), so it is kind of hard to get lost.

P1: From the snow platform, step onto the rock and traverse climber's left following a line of bolts and a fixed rope. Eventually you will get established in a corner where you can build a belay. 5.4, A1, 35m.

This can be linked with the next pitch if you extend all your draws and do a little simul-climbing (with a 70m rope).

P2: Climb up the dihedral until you can step left out of the dihedral onto a terrace at the base of a beautiful slab (the "Burgener Slab"). 5.6, 50ish meters.

P3: Follow the path of least resistance up the slab. This pitch has amazing climbing with a good mix of fun face features and crack jamming. Belay in the middle of a large flake. 5.7, 40ish meters.

P4: Continue up along the flake. Eventually you will reach the base of a small dihedral. Climbing through this is the crux of the route. Continue upwards to a belay at fixed gear. 5.9, 40 meters.

The remainder of the route meanders up and down and left and right along the ridge line. Consider taking in coils for shorter pitches or simul climbing to better manage rope drag.

P5: Climb along the ridge to the false summit and belay at the top of it. 5.6, 50 meters.

P6: Make an awkward move down off of the belay into a saddle/notch between the two summits. At this point you should stop to look around and note the rappel bolts/chains on the south face. That's the descent. Walk across the saddle, and ascend the final 10 meters or so to the true summit. 5.6, 30 meters.

To descend you downclimb back down to the saddle and then make a number of rappels down the south face. Most people climb the route with double ropes so the rappels are traditionally done with two ropes, but it is possible (and recommended) to do the descent with a single rope. A single 50m rope will get you down but some of the rappels are exactly 25m, so take note. There's a photo in the Torino hut of these rappels as well as a copy included in the Dent du Geant area page.

The Damilano guidebook recommends a single rack consisting of 3 pieces: 0.5, 0.75, 1. Make of that what you will.

We found a singles rack from 0.4-2 to be helpful if french freeing. A light doubles rack could be preferred if freeing the route (nothing smaller than 0.3 needed, maybe a single #3, and go light on stoppers), but there are roughly 5 bolts/guidebook pitch, so even if freeing you can make extensive use of fixed gear and don't need that much of your own. The guidebook pitches are short (~25m) so that ends up adding up to a lot of fixed gear.

A single 50m rope can get you down, although a 60m might be preferred since some of the rappels are exactly 25m.