Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Josh Edson, Oct 2020
Page Views: 180 total · 27/month
Shared By: Josh Edson on Apr 6, 2021
Admins: John Miller, P P, Brandon Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Start left hand on crimp seam and right hand on crimp gaston using poor feet of choice. Make your way through a couple crimpy moves and a greasy pinch into first jug. Then follow the obvious seam and a powerful move into the next jug followed by intricate movement at the top requiring creative body positions focused around a sidepull with a circular indent within the main seam. Finish on solid slopers over the lip. One of the areas most classic lines, a must do. Best conditions found in late spring or fall when the rock is dry.

Location

Located on the same boulder as bolete, porcupine and dogbowl. Drive ~1 mile from the north entrance and park at tree clearance on left side of the road. Walk almost straight 200 feet in the direction of the cliff and you should be able to see this large boulder through the trees. If you hit the Yooper Trooper or Off-Kilter boulders you have ventured too far left. Make your way 50-100 feet right across the ridge from there. Follow coordinates for bolete for accurate location. This very obvious, tall boulder has a large, shallow hueco in it. 

Protection

Solid landing, 2-4 pads and 1 or 2 spotters is recommended.

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