Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Dog Wall
|
Best In Show T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Choss Dawgz T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dog Days T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Dogmatic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Nerdgate, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.50112, -109.61885 |
| FA: | Michelle Leber, John Collis |
| Page Views: | 985 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | John Collis on Jan 21, 2021 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Best in Show is undoubtedly the alpha dog splitter up here. The second pitch is a forty meter thin hands crack requiring lots of thumb endurance and a backpack full of number 1's. Get on it.
The first pitch of this route was an established climb listed only as "Unnamed 5.11" in the Kelley book. First ascent Dave Mealey? We found this pitch to be an interesting adventure unto itself. After adding a second bolt to the first anchor, cleaning a few perched blocks off of this pitch and trunding two massive flakes off of pitch 2, this route was extended for another 200+ feet.
P1 — There seem to be a few different options for reaching the crack system on this pitch. We chose to traverse from the far left. This seems like easier and more solid climbing, but does set up the follower to do the first moves off the ground completely unprotected. A more direct option seemed possible but the rock looked more suspect. After traversing, make a few thin crack and face moves up to the thin hands splitter to a two bolt anchor on the left. 5.11, 25 meters
P2 — The $$$ pitch. Not a lot of route finding here. Climb the sick crack forever. 5.11+, 40 meters
P3 — An awesome bonus splitter. The crack narrows down here and while this pitch is a lot shorter than the previous one, it packs a punch. 5.11+, 15 meters
Descent — Rap the route. Getting down pitch 2 will require either an 80 meter rope or 2 60's and it's steeper than it looks. Make sure to maintain some swing so that you can make it to the anchor at the bottom or consider having the first rappeler place a few directional cams
2 Comments