Gray Scale

6 Pitches, effectively sport, although Genereux lists this climb as modern mixed. Genereux ground-up solo bolted the first 4 pitches, before finishing the last 2 on rappel. With the exception of P4, the bolting style feels very sporty and safe. Genereux has kindly placed bolts close to each belay stance to prevent factor 2 falls. The rock is generally compact - lots of techy face and open book stemming, with an absolutely phenomenal hand traverse and mini-boulder on P5.

All belays are modern Fixe rap rings. The route can easily be rappelled with a 70 m rope. A 60 m way work as well, but you may have to knot block to rap P4. Double ropes let you rap the cliff in 3, ~60 m rappels (rap stations at P6, P4 and P2 are all plumb). 

Grades are as Genereux has them-

P1: 5.11a, 30 m (QDs, optional 0.5/0.75 camalot); Climb the detached flake at the bottom to gain your first bolt (2-3 m), then head straight up a left facing corner/groove/pseudo stem-box. Some elegance, some awkwardness, and deteriorating rock quality near the top of the pitch. Belay station is on your right.

P2: 5.9, 25 m (QDs); step left and up from the belay to find your first bolt on the right hand face. Leave the corner to stay on the right hand wall and climb the pinnacle to the top. Spot your belay at the top of the next pinnacle and follow the bolt line up. Some loose rock, this is very clearly an approach pitch.

P3: 5.11b, 25 m (QDs); Maybe I missed something, but this felt absolutely nails for the Genereux grade. Clip the bolt to the right of the belay stance and complete a 5.11 sequence on thin holds past 3 bolts before heading slightly right to a left facing corner (follow the modern Fixe bolts, do not be distracted by the far away bolt up and left). Generally follow the shallow corner through easy terrain to a rest stance before a bulge. Traverse left on thin holds (5.11) under the bulge and gain another rest stance, reaching up and right to clip a bolt. The corner becomes shallower here and is capped a couple meters above your head by a tiny roof. The next bolt is up and around the corner, but well below the roof. Cross the corner (crux) and head up through easy terrain to belay on a ledge (do not traverse right to the other belay stances).

P4: 5.10c, PG13, 32 m (QDs); Follow the bolt line on the grey slab to your left. Head up the slab to a sloping ledge, before heading up spacious bolts through a number of somewhat tenuous, less than vertical sequences at the grade. The rock is incredibly sharp on this pitch- lots of spikey slopers and the occasional razor blade crimp. As you near the top, the rock becomes steeper, trend slightly right over the bulge. There's an optional old pin a couple meters left of the belay that can be used for bonus protection on the easy rightward traverse. PG13 for the couple of places on this pitch that a fall may be slightly bigger than ideal onto low angle terrain. 

P5: 5.12a, 30 m (QDs); The money pitch! This pitch is so good you'll forget about whatever awkwardness or loose rock you've gone through to get here. Carefully head up and left from the belay stance through easy, loose, stepped terrain. Pull thin moves to gain easier terrain into a groove slightly to your right. Follow the bolt line, staying on the right bolt line aiming for the left facing corner that arches left over the yellow wall. Climb up the right side of the yellow wall to a good hand rail, and reach out left to clip your bolt. Traverse left across an incredibly fluid, absolutely slamming hand traverse making a couple of hard moves (do not clip any of the bolts on the left bolt line, none are shared). Pull an exciting, exposed mini boulder, up/right to surmount the bulge formed by the arching left corner. Clip one last bolt for your follower, and then traverse hard left to the belay. 

P6: 5.11a, 20 m (QDs); Left bolt line, slab/face to an overhang (slightly harder, maybe 5.11b). Right bolt line, slab/face to thin face. Right bolt line is the original finish and brings you to a more comfortable belay stance nearly plumb with the anchors at the top of P4. 

From the climbers trail, head right (east) following the cliff band for ~300 m. Follow this to Red Shirt corner- the deepest, most sheltered part of the bowl behind 2 large tree's, one of which has fallen, and a red shirt. This is the first bolt line right of the red shirt (~5 m).

14 QDs, optional 0.5/0.75 Camalot for P1. Helmet.