Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Les Wilson, Wolfgang Heinritz, Andrzej Ehrenfeucht 11/62, FFA: Sacherer, Wally Reed '64
Page Views: 230 total · 55/month
Shared By: Welcome To The Zoo on Dec 7, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

An old Frank Sacherer FFA, expect spice and burl. We didn't know anything going into this route except what the topo says and bit off a lot more than expected. You probably want to be very solid on mungy 5.8 R/X. If P2&3 got cleaned up they would be very fun and safe

P1 (5.7): Go up a 5.7 flared chimney thing around 50' to a big oak on a ledge. 

P2 & 3 (5.8 DNFU): Head straight up from the belay through a beautiful .75 crack into right trending cracks, bring a nut tool to excavate placements. P2 ends at a small frail oak, better to skip this ant hell. Continue up and belay at a pile of blocks. Linking 2&3 requires a 70m. 

Move belay up to some trees below the 4th class ramp

P4 (5.8): This pitch is quite fun. Go up the ramp that gradually gets harder, dirty at first but gets cleaner.  #4 & #4.5 very nice on this pitch. Belay at a stance after either the first or second squeeze.

P 5 (5.9): Money pitch. Bust out 5.9 layback moves up the corner. Continue up corner via wide or thin laybacks (4.5 useful) until a wild black dike appears on the right. Big step to gain the dike and 25' of 5.8 R takes you to the top. This dike section is some of the best face climbing I've done in the park 

P6: Say high to tourists stopping at observation point

Location

Starts on face moves to a chimney around 100' to the right of Selaginella. It is maybe 30' to the right of a medium right facing wide corner.

Protection

Doubles Metolious 00 - BD #4, Single 4.5 or 5 Camalot

Photos

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