Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Les Wilson, Wolfgang Heinritz, Andrzej Ehrenfeucht 11/62, FFA: Sacherer, Wally Reed '64|
|Page Views:||230 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||Welcome To The Zoo on Dec 7, 2020|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
An old Frank Sacherer FFA, expect spice and burl. We didn't know anything going into this route except what the topo says and bit off a lot more than expected. You probably want to be very solid on mungy 5.8 R/X. If P2&3 got cleaned up they would be very fun and safe
P1 (5.7): Go up a 5.7 flared chimney thing around 50' to a big oak on a ledge.
P2 & 3 (5.8 DNFU): Head straight up from the belay through a beautiful .75 crack into right trending cracks, bring a nut tool to excavate placements. P2 ends at a small frail oak, better to skip this ant hell. Continue up and belay at a pile of blocks. Linking 2&3 requires a 70m.
Move belay up to some trees below the 4th class ramp
P4 (5.8): This pitch is quite fun. Go up the ramp that gradually gets harder, dirty at first but gets cleaner. #4 & #4.5 very nice on this pitch. Belay at a stance after either the first or second squeeze.
P 5 (5.9): Money pitch. Bust out 5.9 layback moves up the corner. Continue up corner via wide or thin laybacks (4.5 useful) until a wild black dike appears on the right. Big step to gain the dike and 25' of 5.8 R takes you to the top. This dike section is some of the best face climbing I've done in the park
P6: Say high to tourists stopping at observation point
Starts on face moves to a chimney around 100' to the right of Selaginella. It is maybe 30' to the right of a medium right facing wide corner.