Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Les Wilson, Wolfgang Heinritz, Andrzej Ehrenfeucht 11/62, FFA: Sacherer, Wally Reed '64
Page Views: 230 total · 55/month
Shared By: Welcome To The Zoo on Dec 7, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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An old Frank Sacherer FFA, expect spice and burl. We didn't know anything going into this route except what the topo says and bit off a lot more than expected. You probably want to be very solid on mungy 5.8 R/X. If P2&3 got cleaned up they would be very fun and safe

P1 (5.7): Go up a 5.7 flared chimney thing around 50' to a big oak on a ledge. 

P2 & 3 (5.8 DNFU): Head straight up from the belay through a beautiful .75 crack into right trending cracks, bring a nut tool to excavate placements. P2 ends at a small frail oak, better to skip this ant hell. Continue up and belay at a pile of blocks. Linking 2&3 requires a 70m. 

Move belay up to some trees below the 4th class ramp

P4 (5.8): This pitch is quite fun. Go up the ramp that gradually gets harder, dirty at first but gets cleaner.  #4 & #4.5 very nice on this pitch. Belay at a stance after either the first or second squeeze.

P 5 (5.9): Money pitch. Bust out 5.9 layback moves up the corner. Continue up corner via wide or thin laybacks (4.5 useful) until a wild black dike appears on the right. Big step to gain the dike and 25' of 5.8 R takes you to the top. This dike section is some of the best face climbing I've done in the park 

P6: Say high to tourists stopping at observation point


Starts on face moves to a chimney around 100' to the right of Selaginella. It is maybe 30' to the right of a medium right facing wide corner.


Doubles Metolious 00 - BD #4, Single 4.5 or 5 Camalot