Type: Ice, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 43.73609, -110.80081
FA: Steve Shea and David Beashears, 1979
Page Views: 660 total · 11/month
Shared By: KeithS on Dec 1, 2020
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

We (Sean O'Rourke and I) climbed the route (June 12th, 2012) in 3 pitches gaining the ice on pitch one via some easy mixed ground, traversing in from the right. The initial steep curtain was thin and very hollow. The ice following the traverse was very candled and finding good gear required excavating through 6" of rotten ice and snow. The second pitch climbed through a steep corner on more rotten, candled ice utilizing the rock on the left wall to stem. We belayed at the base of a snowfield then one more pitch of snow and ice (WI 3ish) to the Black Dike and Teepe Col. Here, we watched a massive point release avalanche rip over the East Face of the Grand. We descended down Teepe Glacier and did not take the route to the top of any features. 

Location Suggest change

Around the start of the Moraine camping zone, break right (north) and head up between Glencoe and Teepe Spires. Boot up a long stretch of snow to the end of this gully and start climbing!

Protection Suggest change

10 screws and a light rock rack

Photos

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