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Routes in Teepe Pillar

D is for Dizzle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
West Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 275 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: June 28, 2015 Emma Williams, Sam Macke
Page Views: 212 total, 7/month
Shared By: S.Macke on Jul 10, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

"D is for Dizzle" is located on the steep southwest face of the Teepe pillar. It is accessed via the Glenco-Teepe chute, lookers left of the Teepe structure as viewed from the Garnet Canyon morain camps. The route/variation ascends 3 pitches of new terrain before joining the South Ridge to the summit. The route follows good cracks, uncharacteristically splitter for the Tetons, through light colored granite. It is located on the left side of a prominent light colored pillar immediately to the right of a black and white striped headwall. The pillar is home to several fine looking crack systems and many large flakes. Potential for at least two other new routes exists on this pillar. Pitch one is more of an access pitch, Right then Left to a large stance below the pitch 2 dihedral (5.7 20m). Pitch 2 follows a dihedral broken by ledges, with a crux bulge (5.9 30m) to access the base of the crux pitch. Pitch 3 gains parallel hand cracks by climbing the left of two cracks through a roof, hands to fists (5.11 40m) (right roof crack looks like .12+ fingers) above the roof parallel cracks lead to a 5" left leaning, slightly beyond vertical crack with a chockstone midway. (#5 cam could ease the mind a bit here) follow vertical cracks and blocks to a large ledge. Take the South ridge to the summit, descend as for other routes on the Teepe.

Location

When ascending the Glenco-Teepe Chute the objective will be on your right. As the chute steepens into solid rock, vs. talus, you will head right to the base of a steep wall. an interesting looking red crack system heads directly up the tallest part of the wall ending in a black and white striped headwall (steep and blank looking) D is for Dizzle starts at the bottom of this red system, but stays right of the redish rock, on light colored granite.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot, extra #1, #2, #3 useful, #5 optional

Photos

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