Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Jim Shaw and/or Don Maurais???
Page Views: 406 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Gillest on Oct 18, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

This route is described in the Jim Shaw "Fraser Valley Climbs" guidebook as ending on the overhanging opposite wall. If it is climbed in this above fashion, the route is 3 bolts tall ending on the overhanging opposite wall on 2 Mussy hooks. Rope drag appears to be high using these anchors.

We climbed the first 3 bolts as described above then moved slightly left connecting the the last bolt on Scary and using the 2 Mussy hooks on Scary as anchors for Stone making this option 4 bolts tall.

Details: this route is short and hard, and sharp holds protect the crux. Assume the stem is not part of the route and would downgrade it accordingly.

Location Suggest change

It is the furthest uphill route in the back of the alcove and the last bolted route on the right side.

Protection Suggest change

Quickdraws for 3 or 4 bolts.

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The red line shows the lower route, and the blue line show where we connected the the last bolt and anchors on Scary, 5.10, to the left. The route is supposed to connect the Mussy hooks not shown on overhanging wall behind.
The red line shows the lower route, and the blu…
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