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Routes in The Slab
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Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Catharsis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hot Bricks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Chance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Space Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 44.39631, -73.50691 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 629 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Shane K on Oct 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Climb the slab about 50' to the first bolt (5.2R) - there is a stud missing the hanger before the bolt line starts. Follow the bolted line up and place small gear where needed. The crux is near the top with some delicate friction moves on more vertical slab (I hesitate to call it a face) before easing up. There are bolts with a cord, carabiner and a rap ring (quick link) at the top. Note this is a rope stretcher even at 70m and you will want knots for the rap.
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