Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Hough, Geoff Smith Patrick Munn. 1976
Page Views: 241 total · 17/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Dec 3, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

5.9 R, PG with a stick clip, and 5.7 R/X

Most agree the 5.7 R/X P3 is the crux of this 5.9 climb, although there is something to be said about reaching the first bolt on P2 if you don’t stick clip it. 

P1 - Climb (or scramble Cl3) up the right-leaning corner/flake, step off the top onto the dark slab and pass 2 bolts (5.9 or 5.8 A-0 ). Continue to the left end of a tree ledge. 100 ft  5.9 

P2 - From left end of ledge move up and left-ish on a slab to a stance below a steeper slab and below a bolt. (The once I led this climb, which was the first time I climbed it, I made an on-the-spot stick clip from a fallen branch and tape from the first aid kit to clip the bolt.) Make a hard move up to the bolt and then more hard moves as you traverse left 15 ft (The 3-4 bolts above the first bolt protect the crux moves on Space Odyssey 5.10b, but may appeal due to the better protection. ) After the traverse left, climb relatively "easier" rock past cracks and flakes to a bolt, then another bolt and traverse right to a bolted belay shared with Space Odyssey.  80-90 ft 5.9 

P3 - Move up and left-ish into a shallow corner ( I recollect a green Alien placed somewhere low on this pitch) then up and left to a good stance with steeper slab immediately above you. ( see note ) Make the unprotected, pure friction move(s) on the steeper slab ( 5.7 R/X) then continue up the slab (5.6 or so) with some crackless “flakes“on your right, crackless until their top where a small wire nut ( #2 , #3 Stopper??) can be lodged. Continue up the slab to a good stance below the arch. (l remember one more placement for a small wire at a sort-of blocky flake) The good stance is several feet below the arch, so you’ll have to climb up, place you gear ( med and large cans) and extend the anchor down to the stance. 120-130 ft 5.7 R/X (Note, if you have ever done the climb “Surprise” on Suicide Rock, CA, the 5.7 R/X move is identical to the “surprise” move on that climb.) 

P4 - Move right at the level of the belay (you really don’t want to put in pro under the arch: rope drag above) to where there is a break in the arch, climb up (gear) and through.  Up the corner immediately above the break and when the corner ends (protect as high as possible) continue with slab moves leadIng to a ledge and belay.  80-90 ft 5.6 - 5,7

P5 - Up and left easily 100 ft, or so, to pine tree rap or 140-150 +/- ft)  to the start of the last pitch of Catharsis and finish on that climb, or to the slab rap line that starts at pine tree ledge.  

Location

Start where the climber’s path first reaches the slab (Before the start of Arch) at an easy corner/flake. (AdkRock calls it class 3, but the 3 times I did it we belayed it!) 

Protection

Std rack including small wires. Maybe a couple of “screamers” for the thin gear on P3.  Optional is Tape for a made-on-the-spot stick clip for the high bolt at the start of P2

Photos

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