Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 254 total · 13/month
Shared By: Franck Vee on Oct 12, 2020
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Fun 2-3 pitch climb with great position.

From the slung tree, climb the 2 small corner features & get to a small roof. Get some good gear in, then commit to the unprotected slab for 10m or so (5.6 or so). Get to another small roof, more good gear, and embark on a left-leaning diagonal finger crack (5.8). Next belay (2 bolts) on the tree patch above.

From the tree patch, get some small pieces in, sort out the crux in the parallele cracks. Then turn the corner and discover the traverse on the other side - well proctected, fun finger crack climbing to the next tree patch & belay.

Then either commit to the 3rd pitch & top out or rap from there.

Location

To the climber's left on the higher treed ledge above Planetarium, more or less in line with Uranus (mixte 5.9, a single bolt can be seen on it from the ground).

To get there, climb more or less any route in Planetarium, most of which have an anchor on the first ledge (~20 meters from the ground). From there, any short trad pitch (15-20m) going up from that ledge will lead to the higher ledge. Once there, go climber's left until you pass a tree that forces either a squeeze between the tree & the wall or an exposed tree-hugging move to get to the other side. Sling the tree for a belay anchor. The start of the climb feature 2 very small right-facing dihedral features. Don't go all the way to the next 2-bolt anchors.

You may or not be able to reach that higher ledge if you go all the way to the end of Planetarium (climber's right) and go up the trail.

Protection

1 pitche has OK gear when available. After the first few pieces however, there is a decent runout (maybe 10-12m or so?) on the slab. The runout section is 5.6 and climbs well. Just bring your lead head (you're in Pinacle, after all). You next piece of gear will be at a small roof above.

Gear on the remaining pitches is good. Some smaller cams/nut may be useful for the start of the 2nd pitch, to protect the technical crux (5.9).

If topping out, either go climber's right towards the Grand Dièdre to rap, or walk out the hiking trail.

If rapping after the 2nd pitch, rap more or less inline with that tree patch to one belay with 2 bolts anchors (just slightly left of the climb itself). Then from there, one long (2x 60m ropes) rap to the belay ledge where you started. It may be preferrable to walk climber's right on that ledge to rap as there a fewers trees belay.

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