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Routes in Mont Pinacle

Camay T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Esprit d'escalier T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pixie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Point de fuite (Orient Express) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SuperCrack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA (1st pitch) : Bertrand Côté et Martine Codère (1977)
Page Views: 146 total, 5/month
Shared By: Florent Riehl on Sep 8, 2015 with updates
Admins: Luc-514

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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

A really nice 2 pitch route, that can be a 3 or even 4 pitch if you want it longer !
(You can add a pitch before -in the Planetarium area to reach the ledge- or after -see the comments for more infos)

P1 (130ft - 40m): Start on the ledge, follow a little crack up to an horizontal crack. Then reach the "railway" above and follow the steps to the left until you reach the first bolted anchor.
The pitch cross 2 bolted routes, thus you can use 2 bolts if nobody is climbing there !
Otherwise, the pros are quite far from each other : beware of the whipper ! (for the lead climber and the second !)

P2 (130ft - 40m): From the belay, climb the obvious dihedral above you. A really nice pitch. Ends with a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.

Descent : 3 Rappels
R1 : Be careful with your rope length , a 70m rope isn't enough to reach the first anchor
R2 : From the first bolted anchor rappel down to an intermediate belay station on a ledge
R3 : You reach the ground a the base of the impressive roof section.

Location

The route starts on the same ledge than Pixie :
From the Planetarium area, hike the trail going up along the cliff, and head left at the second ledge (there is a cabled wire to secure yourself)
Go to the end of the ledge, there is a bolted anchor to secure the belayer. The route starts a few meters before the anchor.

Protection

Standard rack
Bolted anchors

Photos

Florent Riehl
Montreal, Quebec
 
Florent Riehl   Montreal, Quebec
 
We climbed a last pitch above the second anchor :

P3 (140ft - 40m): Head right (a bit of bush-walking !) to climb the flake. You will have to climb throught some trees.
Once above the trees, you might want to head up as I did : big mistake ! the little crack at the end stops just a few inches before the top, and reaching the top was to hard for me.
Instead, reach the big crack in the dihedral to your right.
(I went right just after the trees, as soon as I saw the little roof with the good horizontal crack below (good handholds but big whipper risk !)
The dihedral is really fun, even if quite dirty.
End in the trees above the dihedral for a good tree-anchor.

Descent :
Head a few meters left in the forest to find a space between the trees. You can rap down from there to the second anchor of the route !

(We didn't try it, but maybe you can find a last pitch higher in the forest, in the "Boîte à surprise" area, to reach the summit of the mountain !) Sep 8, 2015