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Point de fuite (Orient Express)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Mont Pinacle
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Camay T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Esprit d'escalier T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jules T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pixie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Point de fuite (Orient Express) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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SuperCrack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA (1st pitch) : Bertrand Côté et Martine Codère (1977) |
| Page Views: | 212 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Florent Riehl on Sep 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Luc-514 |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
A really nice 2 pitch route, that can be a 3 or even 4 pitch if you want it longer !
(You can add a pitch before -in the Planetarium area to reach the ledge- or after -see the comments for more infos)
P1 (130ft - 40m): Start on the ledge, follow a little crack up to an horizontal crack. Then reach the "railway" above and follow the steps to the left until you reach the first bolted anchor.
The pitch cross 2 bolted routes, thus you can use 2 bolts if nobody is climbing there !
Otherwise, the pros are quite far from each other : beware of the whipper ! (for the lead climber and the second !)
P2 (130ft - 40m): From the belay, climb the obvious dihedral above you. A really nice pitch. Ends with a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.
Descent : 3 Rappels
R1 : Be careful with your rope length , a 70m rope isn't enough to reach the first anchor
R2 : From the first bolted anchor rappel down to an intermediate belay station on a ledge
R3 : You reach the ground a the base of the impressive roof section.
(You can add a pitch before -in the Planetarium area to reach the ledge- or after -see the comments for more infos)
P1 (130ft - 40m): Start on the ledge, follow a little crack up to an horizontal crack. Then reach the "railway" above and follow the steps to the left until you reach the first bolted anchor.
The pitch cross 2 bolted routes, thus you can use 2 bolts if nobody is climbing there !
Otherwise, the pros are quite far from each other : beware of the whipper ! (for the lead climber and the second !)
P2 (130ft - 40m): From the belay, climb the obvious dihedral above you. A really nice pitch. Ends with a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge.
Descent : 3 Rappels
R1 : Be careful with your rope length , a 70m rope isn't enough to reach the first anchor
R2 : From the first bolted anchor rappel down to an intermediate belay station on a ledge
R3 : You reach the ground a the base of the impressive roof section.
Location
The route starts on the same ledge than Pixie :
From the Planetarium area, hike the trail going up along the cliff, and head left at the second ledge (there is a cabled wire to secure yourself)
Go to the end of the ledge, there is a bolted anchor to secure the belayer. The route starts a few meters before the anchor.
From the Planetarium area, hike the trail going up along the cliff, and head left at the second ledge (there is a cabled wire to secure yourself)
Go to the end of the ledge, there is a bolted anchor to secure the belayer. The route starts a few meters before the anchor.
Montreal, Quebec
P3 (140ft - 40m): Head right (a bit of bush-walking !) to climb the flake. You will have to climb throught some trees.
Once above the trees, you might want to head up as I did : big mistake ! the little crack at the end stops just a few inches before the top, and reaching the top was to hard for me.
Instead, reach the big crack in the dihedral to your right.
(I went right just after the trees, as soon as I saw the little roof with the good horizontal crack below (good handholds but big whipper risk !)
The dihedral is really fun, even if quite dirty.
End in the trees above the dihedral for a good tree-anchor.
Descent :
Head a few meters left in the forest to find a space between the trees. You can rap down from there to the second anchor of the route !
(We didn't try it, but maybe you can find a last pitch higher in the forest, in the "Boîte à surprise" area, to reach the summit of the mountain !) Sep 8, 2015