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Moonstone Crack Project
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British C3 PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Upper Tier
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Furious Vexation T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lunar Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moonscape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonstone Crack Project T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c C3 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Aid, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 42.52957, -107.51369 |
| FA: | No free ascent, yet |
| Page Views: | 1,095 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Gee Dubble on Oct 5, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
more Hammish Macarthur than Mason Earle
The Moonstone crack project.
Severely overhanging hand, finger crack with high V.
Savage undercling, V6, to flaring hand jam, to secure fist jam, leads into a 5.12+ flaring hand shuffle, with right side scum, a couple of 5.13 finger locks, then an unsent, high V, tips scum boulder, to tips, to secure flared hand finish. Overhanging 25 degrees. Bolt anchor.
Brutal!
Our posse votes for a 9 or 10 bolt route with fixed draws to get it done. Bolts should placed on the left of fissure.
We might have to wait for the next generation climber with next generation crack skills and equipment. (Single application stick on hand jammies/ rubber hip patches et al, etc.)
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