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Routes in The Moonstone

36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonscape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweetwater Moose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wind Walker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Page Views: 10,956 total, 82/month
Shared By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Dec 27, 2006 with updates
Admins: Mike Snyder
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A WAYYY out-of-the-way crag with easy (1 min.) walkup access from a high-clearance vehicle. Excellent low-angle to steeper slabbing in a mountain oasis in the high desert.
Sticky situation Details

Getting There

High clearance mandatory, 4 WD nice. Take the Agate Flats road exit N about 5 mi past Split Rocks. Then take a GOOD topo or BLM map. The "roads" shown in Lander Rock are not much better than wagon ruts across the prairie. Deep sand in places, narrow, and lots of sagebrush.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Moonstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Moonstone »

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Tyler Tylerson
The Swamp
Tyler Tylerson   The Swamp
Don't let the cows out the gate! Sep 20, 2013
Evanston, WY
rking101   Evanston, WY
Had a great day here.. 1st Multi Pitch lead good pactice. Aug 19, 2012
nice job on the new routes bob, I loved this area when I lived in wyo, used to live in lander so we would climb here all the time, back in 2003 a buddy and myself did two lines, one on the back side of the moon stone and one on lankins backside as well both 5.10 friction with pins in seams and minimal bolts. Its a great area and perfect if you want to get some solitude away from sinks canyon....keep up the psyche!!!!

Casey Bald
New Hampshire Nov 14, 2009
Bob, thanks for the info. My wife and I are very conscious about being sensitive to the land owners so no problem there. I do have the guide bood you mention, just curious about your new routes. Nice ploy scaring off us route squatters with the scary talk. Thats ok though, I have done the same thing in my back yard. Look forward to climbing there and maybe running into you. cheers, Allen. PS- I do have a secret place in Wy myself that I plan to put some routes on. May 11, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
I should also say that if you do get hassled by some rancher about access, just be polite and listen. It's serious for them out there: it's their living and they could care less about lectures on land use policy. Basically they pay fees to use the land out there (to BLM) and climbers don't. Guess what talks when BLM reviews land use policy? So we try not to rile the ranchers so we can continue to have access. May 5, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
The locals aren't really that bad, we project that image to keep people away while we scarf up all the routes. They are real sensitive about closing gates so if you go through any gates that are closed, close them behind you. Also, the Lankin Gap and Moonstone areas are closed to public access until about the end of May, the BLM grazing lease thing is from mid-april to about June something. It's really stupid, but that's the game we have to play here. You can go into Lankin dome from the west approach off Agate Flat Road and Nolan Pocket and be fine with the ranchers. Be real careful about rattlesnakes, they should be coming out now. Going into Moonstone and Lankin Gap can get real tricky driving if it rains. We've had a lot of rain here in the last two weeks and I'm not sure how the road is even into Nolan Pocket. I go out there with my wife and daughter all the time and feel fine about it, but I am 6'4", 180 lbs and not real touchy-feely. I would be sure to take warm clothes because of the unpredictabtility of Wyo weather. The Lander climbing book by Greg Collins has a good overview of the area and a map of the roads, so that's probably the best info....can get it at Wild Iris in Lander. May 5, 2009
Bob. I have been wanting to climb at sweetwater for some time and plan on doing it this year. Question. Are the horror stories obout the locals true or can I climb there with my wife and camp in safety? Also, it would be nice if you posted a photo with route locations. Allen May 2, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
Sport friction....ehhh the new waaaaaaaaaaave. Ha! Apr 3, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
The ones that Ed and I put up together were put up in the lead, with no previewing on rappel. Used a Bosch and when the stances were too thin, either put a Leeper hook on any edge present or hand drilled a shallow hole and perched on a pointed Leeper hook to haul the bag and get the bolt in. So, I suppose that quals as trad, not in the Tom Higgins mode but we thought, if we're gonna put these up, don't make it a horror show, you know, big bolts that are solid and not miles apart. Apr 2, 2009
bob -
I think you need to change all of the climbs to show "sport", rather than "trad" in the title/info.
I'll head in late spring for my Granite's fix, and should have time to check out some of your new slabbies. Apr 1, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
camerones: I'm a little sorry too when I look at the amount of money we invested in drills and bolts, but, hey, that's the cost of existence. There's still room for more lines out there. We focused on the water runnels mainly, because they needed so little cleaning, but outside the runnels, with some brushing and whatnot, that's where the hard stuff is, at least I think so. It looks pretty intimidating anyway. Check it out and let me know how hard you think those routes are. Ed and I are really terrible at rating stuff so all that stuff might be a easier than we think. Mar 31, 2009
20 routes now??
Damn, sorry to hear it bob. Mar 28, 2009
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
Over the last 2 years, Ed DeLong and I have put up several more low angle face/friction climbs here, mostly 60m pitches with Fixx 3/8" bolts and Fixx rappel ring anchors, up to 10b. There are about 20 routes on this stone now. There is a topo at Wild Iris in Lander to sort it all out. Feb 5, 2009

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