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Routes in Lower Ledge Area
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Caveman S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity Nester T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dance, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Darcy's Law T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Folk Dance TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freely Given S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Controversy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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McJugs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McMantle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nubbins TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Open Book Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shark's Tooth T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wilma S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 47.70233, -116.95609 |
| FA: | Cleaned Sept 2020; Seth Oliver |
| Page Views: | 760 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Morgan on Sep 8, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
This is the crack that coincides with the start of The Great Controversy. The initial starting position for the 2 routes is the same.
Start in under the alcove as for The Great Controversy but follow the overhanging hand crack that widens gradually to #5 and #6 BD size through a short horizontal roof section. Once the horizontal section is surmounted, easier climbing leads to the top.
Location
This will be the first route you encounter coming down the staircase approach to the lower ledge area. It is the farthest route to the right on lower ledge area wall.
Protection
Hand size gear protects this climb well with mandatory 5"-6" gear to keep you off the ground at the horizontal section. The hardest parts of the climb would be close to the ground(!) in the event of a fall so bring an attentive belay.
There are currently no top anchors (Sept 2020) set for this route but you can rig a top anchor off the neighboring climbs if they are unoccupied. It would require longer than standard anchor material to do so. 5"-7" gear anchor also possible. The walk-off and walk-on to the top of the crag is just at the top of the staircase.
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