Newbie Ruby

Approach: (5 minutes) Walk down the old highway past the seasonal waterfall and past the top rope crag until you are at the beginning of the large scree/talus slope at the base of the wall. Find the first bolt at the bottom left corner of that slope. The first belay is no more than 15m from the road.

Pitch 1 (5.5, 3 bolts, 17m) Head up towards the obvious ledge with a large tree. Note: this pitch is possible to bypass by scrambling the ledge to the left of the bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.6, 3 bolts, 20m) Straight forward to the small ledge above. Anchor has a shut and an old carabiner for descending.

Pitch 3 (5.10a, 5 bolts, 16m) Head up to the small but obvious roof. Step delicately onto the slab portion above. Anchors on the next ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 4 bolts, 19m) Continue up through a few easy sections to the anchors.

Pitch 5 (5.10a, 8 bolts, 23m) This pitch tends slightly to the right at the start then ends in a full out traverse to the anchors on the grassy mini ledge. Super fun slab pitch with great climbing!

Optional Pitch 6 (5.11/5.12, 9 bolts, 30m) You can start this pitch one of two ways, as a link up with the first section of the last pitch, which makes for a more flowy line, or from the anchors atop pitch 5. Be cautious if you choose the latter as it creates bad rope drag and a higher fall potential at the start. The bolts on this pitch are in strange places and there seems to be two lines happening. The 30m accounts for a full send to the upper anchors as there are also bolts for an anchor halfway up (could use these to separate into two pitches). Also, there is currently an old white static help line attached to this pitch, don’t trust it…

Descent: A single rope can descend this route, but having two ropes make it easier for longer and less frequent rappels, especially when descending pitch 5 as it contains a traverse section and is off to the side, but still possible with a single rope.

NOTE: This line can be used to access the large tree ledge above (continue past the last anchor to a bomber tree), which in turn brings you to a whole different upper cliff band. Always wear a helmet!

Bolted. Rap Hangers at each station as you rappel the route to get back down.