Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 48.55186, -120.59014
FA: Mark Allen and Mike Layton July 18-20, 2004
Page Views: 1,251 total · 18/month
Shared By: Gabe Aeschliman on Aug 16, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The route has some fun climbing, loose rock, and lot's of lichen. 

P1 - Fun flake system to a roof pull and lieback on the left. Scramble up/left to a horn with tat. 5.9 150ft

P2 - Step left to sweet right trending finger crack. Pull bulge and cut hard left to stance right of finger crack. 5.9 100ft

P3 - Climb left to steep finger crack. Some lichen and makes this a bit heady, but the locks are good. Continue up cracks to fun climbing up spooky flakes to good belay ledge. 10c 150ft

P4 - Trend left towards the chimney and belay to the left. 4th 110ft

P5 - Fun chimney. Mostly solid rock, and blocks were OK. Just be careful. 5.8 200ft

P6 - Up poor rock in corner to left traverse to right facing corner. We belayed at top of the right facing corner. Book says to go right after the corner, but we could not see a path. 5.8 100ft

P7 - Left from belay to steep bulges with just enough gear. This pitch felt heads up in the mid 5.10 range. Belyed on the other side of the arete. Not in the Supertopo and better option may exist. 5.10 150ft

P8+ - You will be at or just above Burgundy Ledge. Up past old bolt to skyline. Rambling terrain up to 5.7 will get you to the summit. Maybe a few short pitches depending on drag. 

Alt P8+ - finish the standard North Face route by traversing Burgundy Ledge.

Location Suggest change

From Burgundy Col, scramble loose rock or steep snow down and around the north face of Burgundy until you arrive below a clean splitter flake. This should be about 5-10 minutes from the base of the steep snow at Burgundy Col.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles .4 - 3 with a few smaller cams and one #4. Set of nuts.

Photos

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