The Heretic

Full value, sustained, hard alpine route. Grades listed below are as per the first ascensionist's grading in his guidebook (see comments below for my personal take).

P1 10a: Undercling up the ramp slanting up and right, around a couple corners and across to a bush, then up and belay at a flat ledge.

P2 10c: A mega pitch; dynamic and exciting climbing. From the belay climb up a somewhat broken corner to the right, then charge upwards onto a thin face. Slab climb out left to a jug and reach your foot to the slab ramp. Epic stemming up thin opposing edges, climb past our welded nut halfway up the pitch, then a short move left through overlaps Pro is thin but bomber. Finally, traverse hard right and across horns to a hanging belay. Belay block is loose, climb higher into the corner for good gear.

P3 11b: Straightforward climbing up the pumpy layback up the 11b corner, expect some lichen in your eye.

P4 5.9: Step right from the belay into a large pocket, bisected by a #2 crack. Pull through the bulge then continue up into less obvious terrain. Fingercracks and thin edges trend up and slightly left. Semi-hanging belay after ~35m.

P5: 5.9: Slighty loose, variably sized crack ascends a short corner then face. Cruxy start leads to easier terrain and a belay in broken, jagged terrain.

P6-7 10a, 5.6: Move left to an short and comparably easy finger crack before breaking out into easy 5.6 terrain. Worth linking P6 and 7; climb as far as you can up the 5.6 and belay. Scramble to the summit

Descent: Scramble up along the ridge then drop down before the loose blocky towers. Make a ~20m rap then traverse across and up through loose rock, fortunately lower angle and exposure than the blocky towers. Hit the summit and traverse down a wonderful ridgeline. Cornices form over the gulleys along the ridgeline so shortcutting across snow in early season is ill-advised.

Start at the same 'V' as for the Sentinel Direct, at climbers left of the wall. P1 climbs a ramp slanting up and right

Double tips to #2, single #3, RPs and other thin pro like ballnuts help.