Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 536 total · 24/month
Shared By: Nick Hindley on Aug 6, 2020
Admins: Sean Godwin, Mandie Walls, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

An awesome route on great rock. mostly quality pitches

P1 10a: At the base of the 'V', climb the left fork through slammer hand jams, pulling through a small roof and continuing up to a belay on a ramp. Very fun pitch.

P2 10c: Directly above the belay is a small finger crack dihederal. Climb up about 15 meters then step left into an obvious easier crack slanting up and left. Tenderly yard on some bushes to finish at a nice belay ledge. Note: there are two similar dihederals at the start of this pitch, climb the one on the left; the right does not meet up with the upper slanting crack and you might be hosed.

P3 5.7: Ramble up and right through some non obvious terrain, traversing across a couple pedestals into some broken, lightly vegetated cracks.

P4 5.9: Up and right to a lush, narrow belay ledge.

P5 10a: An epic lieback/ stemming pitch in a thin corner.

P6 10c: ??

P7-8 5.7: Easy blocky terrain to the summit

Descent: Scramble up along the ridge then drop down before the loose blocky towers. Make a ~20m rap then traverse across and up through loose rock, fortunately lower angle and exposure than the blocky towers. Hit the summit and traverse down a wonderful ridgeline. Cornices form over the gulleys along the ridgeline so shortcutting across snow in early season is ill-advised.

Location

Start P1 at the base of a large 'V' on the east end of the wall (climbers left). The left fork of the 'V' climbs the Sentinel Direct, while the right fork leads up the slanting undercling of The Heretic.

Protection

Double rack tips to #3

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