Narcos
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 48.54975, -120.6435 |
| FA: | Michael Telstad Solo - July 2020 |
| Page Views: | 744 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Michael T on Jul 24, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
More detailed pitch breakdown and FA story can be found HERE
Rock is great but cracks are still pretty bushy. If you intend to go out there bring some digging tools. It easily goes in it's current state but I'm sure more pro could be found with some more cleaning
P1, 5.7) Start up the clean cracks up the big left trending ramp to the tree. Gear belay in horizontal below tree is a better stance.
P2, 5.9) Follow the horizontal right and then up, follow good edges and cracks right until you reach a nice looking finger crack, climb this then back left across good ledges to a stance. Belay off gear in horizontal above ledge.
P3, 5.7+ PG13) Go up the bush choked corner for about 15 feet until you can step left into good flake. Follow these up to a large chimney/flake. Step right as soon as you can up a slab passing one Piton and up the sharp arete. From the top of this Step left to a good ledge.
P4, 5.8+ PG13)Climb up the fun arching corner and then right via hollow but fun flakes (place nuts here not cams). Step right around an arete into a nice right facing corner, you are now on the Wright-Pond. Follow this up to a bolted belay.
P5, 5.8) Finish as per the last pitch of the Wright-Pond.
Location
Start as for Cutthroat wall by walking down the old road bed for 1/4 mile until you see an obvious double cairn on the left side of the trail. Enter the woods here and point it straight up until the terrain lowers a little in pitch. At that point you can start arching left to get to the ridge next to the wall. I highly recommend using the slope angle shading map feature on caltopo and trying to stay on lower angle terrain. it’ll make things a little more pleasant. From the ridge it is pretty self explanatory where to go.



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