| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), Grade VI |
| GPS: | 52.18739, -117.07858 |
| FA: | Jim Elzinga & John Lauchlan, Dec. 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,778 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Jul 15, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
Slipstream is on the far right side of the East Face of Mount Snowdome. A classic and serious winter alpine objective, it's best to wait for stable snow conditions because of avalanche danger. While not as overhanging as it is to the left of Slipstream, the ice cap shedding onto the climb is also a potential hazard.
The first half of the route, rolling snow and ice, is usually soloed or simul-climbed to the crux of the climb, a 50 meter curtain of ice. At the top of this, a snow slope connects to 3 more pitches of ice climbing. After the ice is the most concerning part of the climb, a 60 degree snow slope leading up to the ice cap. This slope is more than a rope length long, and depending on conditions, a secure anchor may not be available. Further, snow drifts in here and can load up the slope. Some times an ice patch appears part way up the slope, and it might be a good idea to belay here off a screw and then make it to the bottom of the ice cap on the next pitch. In any event, there is going to be some pucker factor.
Follow the snow slope up and right to the right hand margin of the ice cap. Here the 1000 meter East Face joins the 1000 meter north face in an ice arete. The exposure is thrilling and unforgettable, but the climbing is not hard, and the screws are solid in ice that must be centuries old.
Once on top of the cap, head off to the left staying roped up. The glacier looks benign but a friend of mine fell into a big hidden slot walking across it (no harm, no foul!). Also, stay away from the left edge as it's corniced and you don't want to take the quick way to the bottom. Head over to the the saddle between Snowdome and Little Snowdome until the cornices end.
Traverse back into the gully, maybe further than you think you have to. We made the mistake of not traversing far enough and had to reverse a rappel. You can scope this gully from the climb and try to get a sense of what's required. Rap over a relatively mellow rock band, and then make a few more ice raps down the gully until if flattens out and you can descend back to the base.
Location
Park the car on the side of the road about 1 km toward Jasper from the Information Centre on the Icefields Parkway. Slipstream will be in full view. Ski across the gravel flats onto the moraines. Skirt a small icefall on the right, and up the snow cone to the base of the route. Skiing across the gravel flats and camping the night before is a common strategy.



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