Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||P. Tizzard, A. Stokes, FFA K. Tuach, COTD Var. L. Bennett|
|Page Views:||962 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Stokes on Jul 9, 2020|
A wild route up a big face above the Humber River!
Although the route if fully bolted, it doesn't climb like a typical 1-pitch sport climb in that it route does contain slight runouts and the route-finding, although following bolts, is not always straightforward. In addition, as it is a brand-new route it still contains plenty of moss, lichen, and small loose rock. The climbing on pitch 2 and 4 is particularly engaging and intimidating for its grade. I would recommend both leader and second should be quite comfortable leading at the 5.10b grade before attempting. As goes without saying, proper multi-pitch skills are required!
Pitch 1: Locate the first few bolts directly under the far climbers-left of the big rooves on the face. Follow the bolts up to a short steep move then continue easily to the anchor. (25m, 5.8)
Pitch 2: Follow the left side of the bolts above, then make a tricky traverse onto the steep wall just below the crux. Using good holds along the flake, layback up until you can get your feet underneath you and pull up onto the upper ramp. This crux section is well protected. Continue along ramp on good holds and up to the anchor. A really fun but intimidating pitch for both leader and second. Be aware that if the second falls after unclipping the bolt on the lip of the roof then they may end up dangling off-line in a position that would make it difficult to get reestablished. Be prepared to potentially have to lower or haul the second through the crux if they fall and cannot get back on line. (30m, 5.10a)
Pitch 3: Follow bolts along a rising traverse to climbers-right leading to a steep arete with excellent holds. Ascend arete to the anchor. (20m, 5.8)
Pitch 4: This pitch has two variations. Explained first is the left variation, which shares the first bolt or two with the right variation.
Head up for a bolt or two then step left onto a solid (but fractured) block. Continue traversing up and left using laybacks, then make an airy step to another good stance below a large flake. Mantle up onto the flake and move up left a few feet. A blank section of the face provides protected but difficult climbing for a body-length before easing again to the anchor. (32m, 5.10a/b).
Catch of the Day variation: The line of bolts on the right (straight-up) is reported to be quite thin and goes at about 5.11b.
Pitch 5: Clip a bolt just to the right of the anchor, then scramble about 5m to the next bolt. Continue up low 5th-class terrain following bolts to the top anchor (30m,5.5).
Bushwhack up a short way to a rough trail (pink flagging) that will bring you to the MITM trail, head left (west) along trail to descent to the MITM trailhead parking lot.
If the approach was done by boat then descending back to the Grotto requires either bushwhacking down the slopes to the west of the top of the climb or rappelling the route. If rappelling, take note that the rap down pitch 3 requires a bit of a traverse. Be sure to clip your ropes into the anchor when you get to the bottom to avoid dropping the strands and having them swing out into space.