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Deep State
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Inner Sanctum
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Covid (Seriously Though) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep State S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inner Mingler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Inner Reaches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Viral S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 37.52122, -118.57305 |
| FA: | Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, Marty Lewis; 6/2020 |
| Page Views: | 785 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Jul 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Start with a thin patina crux on good rock past 4 bolts. It's natural to use the arete when doing the crux, for a slightly harder option stay on the patina to the right.
At this point the wall above steepens to gently overhanging jug climbing. As the jugs diminish at the first set of mussies finish by moving left onto the arete.
While the rock is initially high quality the top of the wall does deteriorate somewhat. The arete finish is well protected in a nice location but the lower set of mussies is also an end of route option.
Location
At the centroid of the ORG. The Inner Sanctum wall is as deep in the Gorge as it gets, equally distant to approach from any direction. Since the route is at the center of the most remote wall it is by default at the deepest point within the Gorge.
Immediately right of the wide crack that splits the center of the main wall.
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