Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 37.55983, -106.77372
FA: unknown
Page Views: 524 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 21, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

I would advise others not to climb this route. A number of the holds are huge, guillotine-like flakes that scared the crap out of me. Even though the initial climbing was easy, I stickclipped the first by and had my belayer stand well to the side. My belayer had to continue to shift position to stay out of the potential drop zone. The crux is not one you want to fall on due to bolt placement. Also, the rock quality is poorer than normal on this cliff.

The climb consists of moderate climbing through B3 with a 5.9ish move to clip B4. Then there is a pretty intriguing sequence to get to B5. Be careful as a fall in the crux will result in a pendulum and possibly the loss of some skin on the rock bulge near B4. The crux requires nailing a dyno to a hollow sidepull at B5 - unnerving. After that, it backs off to the anchors.

If you climb this and care about your belayer, make sure they are never below you. If one of the many large hollow holds rips, they will appreciate not being in the fall line.

I don't know the FA or the route name. I just wanted to propose something and warn folks.

Location Suggest change

About 150 feet up river (West) from the nice rock ledge under Money, it is just a few feet right of Hardly Certain.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to anchors.

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