North Couloir (left)

Teakettle's North Face contains three obvious lines - left, center, and right. The left line is mostly snow while the other two are mixed.

At the base of the left couloir, which is split by several rock islands, weave your way up amid fins and spires. I'd recommend hugging the right side as the left sheds more rock. The climb steepens up to perhaps mid-50s degrees minimum near the upper third. Aim for a snow finger and notch at the top.

Downclimb easy snow/scree on the backside of the notch to gain the standard route trail hooking hard right. A quick hike leads to the 5.easy summit block.

This route is on the left side of Teakettle's north face. An obvious approach is via Blaine Basin; however, this makes the descent significantly more complicated sans a 2-hour Yankee Boy shuttle, advanced skiing, or steep snow downclimbing. Most would want a supremely early start via this approach, or a camp.

We accessed the route from Yankee Boy Basin by climbing up and over the Cirque/Teakettle col. Moderate grass, snow and talus led to the col. A couple moves of chossy 4th Class downclimbing took us to a 500 foot descent and traverse on moderate-steep snow to the base of the route. Depending on snow levels, some may want a short rope to get off the col.

Webbing to replace the summit block if needed and a 30m rope for the summit block. I've never roped for the summit but I think a 0.5 and perhaps a hand-sized piece will protect it. Bring pickets and PCDs on the snow if at your limit.

Note the route is viewable from Montrose and other communities thereabouts. That should give you an idea on conditions.