Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,011 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ben Gleason on Dec 21, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is the recommended route up Teakettle when the mountain is covered in snow. The climb goes very fast (only a few miles and 2,500' round trip) and is completely painless in good conditions. Due to the loose nature of the mountain, most will find this far more enjoyable than the standard summer route.

From the Restroom Trailhead (11,300'), head directly uphill. You will quickly (1,000') find yourself in a large cirque to the south of Teakettle. Note the long couloir on the west side of the face: this is your objective.

Climb this couloir on moderate snow (45° max) until you reach a short icy and rocky choke point high on the mountain. Climb this, or traverse right and back left around a cliff band. Finish the climb to the summit block. The standard summit pitch is on the SE side of the block and follows a wide crack system for 30' to the summit.

Note: the Yankee Boy Basin road is closed at 9,100' until May 1 every year. Plan accordingly.


Ice axe and crampons.

Most climbers will be completely comfortable soloing up and down the short, easy, and unexposed summit pitch. If not, a few pieces of pro and the shortest rope you have will protect it.