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> Murrin Park
> Quercus Cliff
Nothing in Moderation
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Quercus Cliff
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A Prince Among Thieves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bought and Not Paid For T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Channeling Your Wheaties T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Clean-Shaven G T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glass Ribs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Glass Slipper, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Man from Del Monte, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nothing in Moderation S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Oracle, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Overdose T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Querculator, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Vorpal Sword S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.64581, -123.20929 |
| FA: | Sonnie Trotter |
| Page Views: | 1,381 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Stu Smith on May 31, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Sick technical near vertical face climbing. Starts off with some technical 11+ climbing then it’s full on technical foot work and tiny hand holds to gain bigger holds after the crux but a tricky section just after this could spit you off. Sonnie did the FA and graded it 5.13+, then Steve Townsend broke a hold at the crux which he says made it harder. Marc Bourbon later did the 3rd ascent and proposed 14a then the next year I did the 4th ascent and confirmed 14a. Video Here
Photos
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