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Routes in 2nd Band
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Airball T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Anvil, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blacksmith, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Brick House S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Choss Boss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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God Mode S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Great Nuts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Groovy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantle Mania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pocket Puzzle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Semi-Splitter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slap Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Walk the Plank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Ian Dory |
| Page Views: | 850 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on May 8, 2020 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 9/30/24: Closure for Redstein area near Redstone lifted
Details
9/30/2024: the climbing closure for peregrine falcon nesting near Redstone, Colo is now over. You may see falcons in the area, and we have determined that there is no longer sensitive nest activity that needs to be protected. Thanks to everyone for supporting the nest protections for this pair by helping to get the word out to your partners, customers, and friends.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest, Aspen-Sopris District
White River National Forest has established a Forest Order closing the USFS area in the Redstein climbing area until [October] 1, which includes all routes at all bands (or tiers). Signs and a map attached are posted at two access routes off CO Highway 133, along with interpretive information about peregrine falcons at a pullout on CO Highway 133.
Thank you for your help getting the word out to your partners, customers, and friends.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 50 Weant St., Unit A
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
For the Redstein climbing area near Redstone: after discussions with Colorado Parks and Wildlife and the owner of nearby private land and on behalf of these entities, the Forest Supervisor has temporarily closed an area encompassing cliffs and access on White River National Forest to provide solitude for nesting peregrine falcons and their young. The adjacent private landowner has expressed that private land is also to be closed. We anticipate this closure will extend through August and will be monitoring nest activity to provide periodic updates.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest, Aspen-Sopris District
White River National Forest has established a Forest Order closing the USFS area in the Redstein climbing area until [October] 1, which includes all routes at all bands (or tiers). Signs and a map attached are posted at two access routes off CO Highway 133, along with interpretive information about peregrine falcons at a pullout on CO Highway 133.
Thank you for your help getting the word out to your partners, customers, and friends.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 50 Weant St., Unit A
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
For the Redstein climbing area near Redstone: after discussions with Colorado Parks and Wildlife and the owner of nearby private land and on behalf of these entities, the Forest Supervisor has temporarily closed an area encompassing cliffs and access on White River National Forest to provide solitude for nesting peregrine falcons and their young. The adjacent private landowner has expressed that private land is also to be closed. We anticipate this closure will extend through August and will be monitoring nest activity to provide periodic updates.
Description
God Mode is one of the best 5.14s in the country and one of the most impressive lines on the Western Slope.
This incredible long route tackles the biggest, most noticeable feature on the Second Band and maybe the whole cliff. Start by climbing 70 feet of amazing technical 5.12b (The Anvil), then bust out the 5.13 extension that ends halfway through the 40 foot roof (The Blacksmith). Cop a good rest at the chains, and hand traverse perfect edges to the base of the prow and the steepest part of the roof. Power through underclings and a perfect pocket with loads of campusing and upside down climbing to reach a bad crimp at the lip. Pull a crux lockoff to a cobble, and mantel with difficulty to a precious stance on the incredibly exposed headwall. Tiptoe up cobbles to a jug and a 1 bolt anchor at the top of the Second Band.
This incredible long route tackles the biggest, most noticeable feature on the Second Band and maybe the whole cliff. Start by climbing 70 feet of amazing technical 5.12b (The Anvil), then bust out the 5.13 extension that ends halfway through the 40 foot roof (The Blacksmith). Cop a good rest at the chains, and hand traverse perfect edges to the base of the prow and the steepest part of the roof. Power through underclings and a perfect pocket with loads of campusing and upside down climbing to reach a bad crimp at the lip. Pull a crux lockoff to a cobble, and mantel with difficulty to a precious stance on the incredibly exposed headwall. Tiptoe up cobbles to a jug and a 1 bolt anchor at the top of the Second Band.
Location
This climbs the biggest roof on the Second Band and is the full extension to the popular 5.12 The Anvil right in the middle of the sector.
Photos
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