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Fantastic Voyage
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British C2-
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Camp
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A Question Of Etiquette T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Andrew Jackson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Any Way You Slice It T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Ballew Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ballin' like Stalin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brown Smack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2+ PG13 |
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Buff Rubenesque T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ |
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Buff Rubes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 R |
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Bursting at the Seams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Camp | 0377, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chesnutt’s Roof T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Commandant’s Choice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Bar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crankus Maximus T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fantastic Voyage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2- |
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Free White and 21 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fuhrer’s Fury T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goins Route T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heavy Hors D’Oeuvres T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2- |
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Honeycomb Hideout T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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J.C.M. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 R |
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Knockout Artist, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Layaway Plan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Little Tree T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lusk Point Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mace & Chain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 R |
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Mountain Madness T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Big Stuff T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muma Pădurii T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Not Even Close C2+ |
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Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plate Lunch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ R |
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Pleasure Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Redneck Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Ride the Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Robyn's Roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rolling Rock C2+ |
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Seize the Biscuit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shoot To Thrill T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Steggosaur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steve McQueen Memorial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 R |
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Suck Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R |
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Suck Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sudden Death Play Off T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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To Hook, or Not to Hook C2+ |
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Truancy C2-3 |
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Unintentional Imposition T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2 |
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Vine Wall Route 1 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2 |
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Violent Twisting T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 35.12783, -85.38894 |
| FA: | Rick Mix & Ed Marshal |
| Page Views: | 791 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on May 4, 2020 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
Pitch 1 Climb up to the kaboom ledge by your route of choice Little Tree being the best in my opinion. Belay on the ledge at bolts.
Pitch 2 Climb short pitch angling right off belay through easy terrain aiming for the large over hang with splitter crack. Make belay on huge ledge.
Pitch 3 climb up corner and clean aid through roof crack and up on to face where you will belay at a couple rivets and a shiny new bolt.
Pitch 4 climb up the jagged headwall per the norm mindful of sharp edges. There are few solid fixed pins. Free climbing eases this pitch as I feel it would be rather difficult to stay in your aiders
This is the easiest of the aid route I have done in the area and would be a good warm up/intro for aspiring aid climbers in The Suck. There’s some loose stuff but nothing as heinous as some of the other aid routes in this wall. While this seems like a lot of pitches for a short route I would imagine the rope drag being wildly difficult with a partner no matter what you do but this route is easily done in two pitches on rope solo. 1&2 can easily be linked though.
Figure outs your raps. I would not try and rap the route. I went climbers right above the cliff band and scrambled down a gully. Eventually rapping down the face. Double ropes could be nice I used a single 70m. You can also make your way to Kaboom and rap it with two 60s I believe I left webbing up there.
2 Comments