Type: Aid, 60 ft
FA: Anderson, 16 April 2019
Page Views: 119 total · 16/month
Shared By: Manderson198 on Apr 16, 2019
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Plug a cam in a nice slot, and then make a couple of careful hook moves, and place a good cam for protection in a horizontal to your left. Now make a choice—-move out left and make a couple of C1 moves in a crack up to a roof, or take the direct approach and hook a thick flake on the right, and step high to the roof to place a good cam (hence the name of the route). Plug some good gear for a few moves, and move around left to another roof. Conquer this roof with a small offset nut and a blind cam placement. Follow a dirty groove/seam to the top. Tricky-ish moves involving offset and micro nuts, tricams, and a hook, eventually lead to solid horizontal cams 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree for an anchor.

The route has deck potential down low if you blow a hook, and some care is needed regarding rope management. The upper section is dirty, and excavation was needed to find some of the gear placements. All in all, a worthy suck creek adventure.

Location

Route starts between two trees, above a low roof, following a thin seam, 40 feet left of the streambed approach, and five feet left of the route Free James Brown. 

Protection

Standard clean aid rack. BD grappling hook, cliffhanger, and talon were used. Offset and micro nuts useful. Small cams, and nothing larger that #1 C4 needed.

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