Type: Aid, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 35.12783, -85.38894
FA: Rick Mix and Todd Wells 1999
Page Views: 965 total · 9/month
Shared By: Manderson198 on Jun 16, 2017
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

This route is amazing, and keeps your attention the whole way. The only thing keeping it from being four stars is the anchor situation. But that's what keeps Suck Creek wild.

I climbed it completely clean, clipped two fixed heads, and removed one dead head. Some trickery was essential.

Start under a low roof, standing on a large rock platform. Get a solid piece in under the horizontal roof, fifi in, and reach over the lip to get into a seam. Clip a fixed aluminum head. Follow disconnected seams up until you are skirting the right edge of a large roof on your left side. I removed a dead head along the way, and the space allows for a good blue ballnut. Pass about five feet to the left of some fixed pins in a horizontal (fixed gear on the route Fascist Leader), but do not clip; instead, stay in the seams, and trend left to the top, passing a fixed aluminum head along the way.

Once at the top, pick a tree and sling it to get down.

Location Suggest change

Start under a low horizontal roof, on a rock platform, just to the right of the large upper roof that comprises the routes Nazi Party Animal and Caesar's Palace. Locate a fixed bashie, and follow seams, aiming for the right edge of the large roof. Pass the roof, staying to the left of a pair of fixed pins about 25 feet from the top. Follow seams in a very shallow corner, and then up the face to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Aid gear. Climbed clean making good use of size 1/2/3 ball nuts, a grappling hook, small beaks, a cam hook, and micro nuts. Small cams useful as well. Two fixed aluminum heads were clipped.

Photos

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