Falcor
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 49.82411, -119.36582 |
| FA: | Adam Tutte'15 FA Craig Lingley '16 |
| Page Views: | 470 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Apr 12, 2020 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, John Evan, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
. Do NOT climb this on any rope less than 80 m, or be prepared for shenanigans!
Climb fun face to the mid-way point which is marked by a limestone-like band of features and a transition from bolts to perma-draws. Take the left branch for Falcor, general consensus is the right branch goes at hard 5.12c.
Reach up, clip your first perma, and do one of two things:
1. Be baffled at the impossibility of the slopey, downward facing holds.
2. Climb through the easy crux if you read it correctly.
Clip the 2nd perma mid-crux before clearing the boulder problem and gaining easier territory. The rest of the climb is yours to botch, and there's a lot left!
The locking biner on the chains is stuck shut, bring enough to thread your rope.
Beta note:
If you're tall, you may be S.O.L. on this one.
Knee pad goes on your left leg if you want it/can afford it.



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