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Falcor

5.12a, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Adam Tutte'15 FA Craig Lingley '16
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > KLO Creek > Amphitheater > Centre Stage

Description

38 m line

. Do NOT climb this on any rope less than 80 m, or be prepared for shenanigans!

Climb fun face to the mid-way point which is marked by a limestone-like band of features and a transition from bolts to perma-draws. Take the left branch for Falcor, general consensus is the right branch goes at hard 5.12c.

Reach up, clip your first perma, and do one of two things:
1. Be baffled at the impossibility of the slopey, downward facing holds.
2. Climb through the easy crux if you read it correctly.

Clip the 2nd perma mid-crux before clearing the boulder problem and gaining easier territory. The rest of the climb is yours to botch, and there's a lot left!

The locking biner on the chains is stuck shut, bring enough to thread your rope.

Beta note:
If you're tall, you may be S.O.L. on this one.
Knee pad goes on your left leg if you want it/can afford it. 

Location

2nd line right of the cave at the Amphitheater, left branch (arches back right after the branch).

Protection

10 bolts, a pile of permas, 2 bolt anchor with chains and effectively a rap ring.