Scalped
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.91931, -111.78404 |
| FA: | John Burcham and Larry Coats, 2004. |
| Page Views: | 573 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Another line to tick on the 5.11 trad circuit while at Tomahawk. It's a worthwhile route with good variety, although we felt it certainly didn't match the quality of its neighbors.
P1- Stem up into the obvious left-facing dihedral to a bolt protecting an awkward hump (layback or thrutch) over the first bulge. Stem up the corner to the second bulge, which demands a very difficult mantle hump to surmount. Traverse left on good edges past 2 more bolts to a 2-bolt belay (no chains) on blocks. .11, 60'
P2-Follow the crack upward, starting with some tough .3 BD sizes through changing corners, but progressively widening and easing off. There is some lichen to contend with, but it's still pretty good crack climbing. When the system ends, dance around a huge detached block via easy, unprotected slab until you can stand on it and head back left. Exit via a steep, left-angling #4 BD crack (fist or layback) with licheny feet. Build a gear belay on the summit. .11-, 90'



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