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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in The Toe
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Any Portland In a Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cactus Kiss T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Call Her Daddy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chilly Nuts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney Fire Drill S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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COVID S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cure, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goody Goody T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang Nail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horseshoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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I Love Red S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Madi's First S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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More Bits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Old Guys Drool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Red Shirt TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rona S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Run Home To Mommy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shiver S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Six Feet S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleeping Giant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spark Joy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sugar Free T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweepers Choice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sweet as Can Be S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swine Flu S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tethered Goat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tough as Nails T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zika S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 942 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | bspiewak on Mar 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Access Issue: Wildlife Preserve, access sensitive, nesting raptors
Details
Description
Find the Lowest point of the The Toe and go Up.
Pitch 1 5.9 90' 8 bolts, one 2" cam, 1 shoulder length sling. Bolted anchor.
Two bolts off the ground lead to a 2" cam placement. After this cam placement the 3rd bolt is a long runner off to the left, it's the 2nd bolt of Cactus Kiss. Clip the next bolt of Cactus Kiss also, but here's where CK steps hard right, and Up goes, up. Straight up into the red rock (5.9) and the anchor visible above.
Pitch 2 5.9 120' 6 bolts.
2nd pitch steps left off the belay onto the large low angle ledge. The 3 bolts you see above protect 5.9 face climbing. Once thru that you'll stand upright, look around, and wonder where to go. The answer is Up. 2 bolts visible above lead to bolted rap anchor. The bolt to the left across the grass is Cactus Kiss.
Rappelling from here: 35m straight down might get you to Cactus Kisses first pitch anchor. There's a small cactus to avoid.
90' rappel off this anchor is skier's left as you look down, over to Spark Joy's first pitch anchor, and then again skier's left down to Horseshoe's start.
Pitch 3 5.6 90' 6 bolts. optional small cam
3rd pitch you'll leave the belay and walk up and left to get back onto steeper rock. ~5 bolts above (5.6) lead you to a nice stance atop the crag.
40' above is another rappellable anchor atop the crag, useful if you're topping out. 4 raps back down to the start of Horshoe's, or 4 raps down Cactus Kiss.
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