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Routes in The Toe

Any Portland In a Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cactus Kiss T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Horseshoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
I Love Red S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Madi's First S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
More Bits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Old Guys Drool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Swine Flu S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Moise-Swann
Page Views: 518 total · 11/month
Shared By: Monte Swann on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Wildlife Preserve, access sensitive, nesting raptors Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

First pitch all bolts. As you pull up on ledge remember the name of the route. Second pitch starts with a few small to medium cams up broken face and finger crack then left to belay chains on face. Last pitch up bolted friction face to crux move through triangular roof (medium cam protected) and up past bolts and easy featured climbing to top chains. Four rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take frequent mending. Rap first pitch to west of fall line(base of More Bits) First pitch makes a good family top rope if you use an occasional runner and have a 70 meter rope

Location

Route starts on wall to right of large cleft in Toe. Descent is 4 rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take mending. Route goes to top of wall and is a good way to get to all West Tier routes

Protection

Bolts and few small cams for 2nd-3rd pitches

Photos

Safty Third
San Diego, CA
 
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
 
I climbed the first pitch as well, and when looking up at the second pitch it just didn't seem worth the effort, even if the 3rd was decent. Dec 12, 2017
I only climbed the first pitch. All bolts are still in good condition, the chain is getting alittle weatheted but definitely still acceptable. About 6 or 7 quickdraws for the route, then the anchor. Make sure you tie knots in the end of your rope it takes a 60m to the max. Jun 16, 2017
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
P1: 20 ft of 5.7/5.8 until you gain the arete and it is 5.2 to the anchors.

P2: Hard to tell where the route goes from the top of P1. But it is a crack that is a little hard to see from the anchor at your 12 o'clock. The crack has bushes in the first half and is unusable for gear or jamming. Climb the suspect face holds to the right to gain a splitter finger crack (5.4) for another 10 ft. From here if you look up and left you can see the anchor at the top of P2. Find the best route through all the bushes to make the final face moves past one bolt to an anchor.

P3: Go up past bolts to a ledge. Move right to a 3-4 ft vertical crack leading up to a suspect coffee table sized flake that forms a triangle shape at the top. CAUTION: THIS FLAKE FLEXED AND CREAKED WHEN I PULLED ON IT. It is definitely going to come off just a matter of time. Take extra care to not crank on it. This move (what gives this climb its 5.8 rating) can be protected to a certain extent but since the only decent rock is at the base of the ledge any fall at the crux would result in you decking.

Me and my partner thought this climb was a bomb. Recommend just avoiding. Juice wasnt worth the squeeze. Dec 12, 2015