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Routes in The Toe

Any Portland In a Storm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Cactus Kiss T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Chilly Nuts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horseshoes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
I Love Red S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Madi's First S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
More Bits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Old Guys Drool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Shiver S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swine Flu S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Zika S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Moise-Swann
Page Views: 646 total · 12/month
Shared By: Monte Swann on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details
Access Issue: Wildlife Preserve, access sensitive, nesting raptors Details

Description

First pitch all bolts. As you pull up on ledge remember the name of the route. Second pitch starts with a few small to medium cams up broken face and finger crack then left to belay chains on face. Last pitch up bolted friction face to crux move through triangular roof (medium cam protected) and up past bolts and easy featured climbing to top chains. Four rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take frequent mending. Rap first pitch to west of fall line(base of More Bits) First pitch makes a good family top rope if you use an occasional runner and have a 70 meter rope

Location

Route starts on wall to right of large cleft in Toe. Descent is 4 rappels with 60 meter rope but ropes don't fall free and take mending. Route goes to top of wall and is a good way to get to all West Tier routes

Protection

Bolts and few small cams for 2nd-3rd pitches

Photos

Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
P1: 20 ft of 5.7/5.8 until you gain the arete and it is 5.2 to the anchors.

P2: Hard to tell where the route goes from the top of P1. But it is a crack that is a little hard to see from the anchor at your 12 o'clock. The crack has bushes in the first half and is unusable for gear or jamming. Climb the suspect face holds to the right to gain a splitter finger crack (5.4) for another 10 ft. From here if you look up and left you can see the anchor at the top of P2. Find the best route through all the bushes to make the final face moves past one bolt to an anchor.

P3: Go up past bolts to a ledge. Move right to a 3-4 ft vertical crack leading up to a suspect coffee table sized flake that forms a triangle shape at the top. CAUTION: THIS FLAKE FLEXED AND CREAKED WHEN I PULLED ON IT. It is definitely going to come off just a matter of time. Take extra care to not crank on it. This move (what gives this climb its 5.8 rating) can be protected to a certain extent but since the only decent rock is at the base of the ledge any fall at the crux would result in you decking.

Me and my partner thought this climb was a bomb. Recommend just avoiding. Juice wasnt worth the squeeze. Dec 12, 2015
I only climbed the first pitch. All bolts are still in good condition, the chain is getting alittle weatheted but definitely still acceptable. About 6 or 7 quickdraws for the route, then the anchor. Make sure you tie knots in the end of your rope it takes a 60m to the max. Jun 16, 2017
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
 
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
 
I climbed the first pitch as well, and when looking up at the second pitch it just didn't seem worth the effort, even if the 3rd was decent. Dec 12, 2017
Monte Swann  
 
Referring to Dan Evans comment about the flexing flake on the 3rd pitch: When the route was established this flake was considered with jaundiced eye. The minor flexing was noticed and subsequently tested with a 30" wrecking bar. It went nowhere. Further inspection revealed that the flake was the left edge of a large formation that got thicker to the right and merged with the solid face with no cracks or seams present. The minor flexing leaves plenty of margin for the move to be protected with a medium quadcam as it would be a pity to miss what is probably the most fun move on the climb. As Dan said it could certainly come off in a matter of time. Probably in a little more than 3000 years. Jan 26, 2018
Monte Swann  
 
The middle of the route is a bit contrived with the ledges and bushes but it was originally envisioned as being a direct route to West Tier without having to go back to the main trail. It is not a lot of fun to rap (single 60) but it turns out that in its entirety it is an excellent route for introduction to mixed alpine multipitch with lots of lessons along the way. Jan 26, 2018

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