H3O

This description is from memory of a single complete ascent nearly 40 years ago. The climb was named H3O because a different form of precipitation was encountered on each of our three attempts.

The route is not on the Main Dome, but is instead located on a formation to the north. It is on the north side of the NE Buttress, aka "Rocco's Wall". The climb can be identified by a prominent crack, starting about 75 feet up, that leads up for about two hundred feet, and then leans right for another two or three hundred feet.

All natural gear (except for the pin noted below). I recall doubles of everything up to a #4 Friend, but I’m pretty sure we didn’t have anything larger.

Pitch 1: The pitch to reach the main crack, as originally done, was circuitous. Climb a short ways up a small crack, then traverse to the right to another small crack, and then back left to semi-hanging belay at a flake at the base of the main crack. This was 5.8, but the pitch could be straightened out at about 5.10 or so. We used a pin as part of the belay anchor at the flake, but modern gear should be more than adequate.

Pitch 2: Shallow hand and finger crack (5.10) leads to a belay stance at the base of a spectacular hand crack.

Pitch 3: Hand crack leads to belay where the crack starts to head right (5.9). We went right, but there are variations that could go straight up.

Pitch 4: Climb the right-leaning crack for a long pitch, where a layback leads to a short offwidth section just before a belay at nice stance. (5.11)

Pitch 5 and (probably) Pitch 6: Continue following the crack to the summit ridge of the NE Buttress. (5.9)

The rope may be needed occasionally along the summit ridge.

Descent: Follow the summit ridge to where it meets the main wall. Rappel into the gully behind the main wall.

From the base, this overhanging-and-leaning-to-the-right route seemed (to me) to resemble a mini-Astroman, a remark for which I was roundly mocked. Just head around the corner from The American Pillar and up the gully a ways, and this one should jump out at you.

Natural gear