The American Pillar

This description is from memory of a single ascent nearly 40 years ago. It follows the main crack system on the left side of the NE Buttress, aka "Rocco's Wall". This is not on the Main Dome, but on a formation to the north.

All natural gear; bring bigger stuff for the roof and dihedral. We had a number of tube chocks--no such thing as BigBros, or large SLCDs!

Pitch 1: Hop across gap to the rock, climb left-facing dihedral for a ways, then face climb up and over to a smaller left-facing dihedral above. Follow this to a belay in an alcove below a small roof. (5.9/5.10-) See photo.

Pitch 2: A short pitch along the offwidth roof to hanging belay at the end of the difficulties. See photo. May be combined with pitch 3, but might give rope drag. (5.10)

Pitch 3 and (probably) Pitch 4: Following right-facing dihedral for one or two pitches to a nice flat belay at the top of the pillar. (5.9) See photo.

Pitch 5 and (maybe) Pitch 6: Climb the knobby face up and left toward a notch above the Main Gully. (5.9)

Descent: Two or three rappels into the main gully. At one point Paul F. and I argued for a long time over a series of somewhat sketchy anchors before finally agreeing on one. Best to bring a bolt kit just in case (leaving one behind was a mistake).

From the valley, it is the buttress immediately north of the Main Wall. I recall some third class scrambling to get to the base, and having to hop across a gap onto a friction slab to get started.

All natural gear. Please see note in the route description about gear for the descent.