Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 220 ft (67 m), Grade II|
|FA:||Alex Lowe & Doug Chabot 1995|
|Page Views:||660 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||J J on Nov 30, 2019|
|Admins:||GRK, Zach Wahrer|
65 meters of pure bliss! Start on the large, sloping snow ledge visible from the canyon below. There is a good belay from rock gear (threaded sling and a .5cam) left of the route to stay out of the kill zone.
Start with some forearm burning, calf pumping grade 4+ ice for 15 meters or so before the route backs off (fixed pin low and right for when the ice is thin). Climb another 10 meters or so of low angled runout snow before finishing the route with some WI2/WI3 ice to a small cave belay. Above the cave belay is a 2 meter step of ice, and low angle snow to the trees above. I recommend stopping here, and not doing the full "90 meters" like the guidebooks says. 70's will get you back to the ground from here no problem.
Direct start possibilities. Sometimes there is a hanger, or even possibly a small pillar in the cliffs below the route. Traverse to it direct from the base of The Big Sleep and add some more grade 5 climbing to the day.
1. Ski up the trail "too far" before heading west up the steep drainage walls and then traversing back north to the base of the route to avoid the cliffs below the route. You will have a view of Code Red from this approach before the traverse back to below the start of the route.
2. Not "too far" past the Big Sleep turn off,but still another 10+ minutes up the trail, drop into a small drainage, then back out and into another before heading straight up the steep slopes just south of the route to avoid the cliffs below the route again. From this approach you will not be able to see Code Red.
Depending on snow, weather or not on skis and how "lost" you get in the woods, it should take anywhere from one to two hours from the sometimes used parking spot at the base of the canyon, just before crossing the creek.