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Areas in Hyalite Canyon

Crocodile Rock 4 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Dribbles Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Fins, The 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Genesis Area 1 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 13
Headwall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Magic Wall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Mummy Area 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 14
Overhangatang Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Palisade Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Practice Rock 19 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Scottish Cliffs 0 / 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 5
Swamp Rock 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Twin Falls Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Unnamed Wall, The 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 10
Winter Dance Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 6,664 ft
GPS: 45.49, -110.98 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 95,028 total, 858/month
Shared By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008 with updates
Admins: grk10vq
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Description

With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America. Hyalite Canyon also features some very high quality and popular gneiss rock climbing lower in the canyon at Practice Rock and Crocodile Rock, with a lesser visited volcanic area higher up in the canyon on the Magic Wall, among many other smaller obscure crags.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.
Potential road closures in winter. Details

Getting There

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.
firstascentpress.com/winter…

95 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hyalite Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
Genesis I
TR, Ice
WI3+
Genesis II
Ice
WI3+
The Elevator Shaft
Ice
M4
The Thrill is Gone
Mixed
WI5
Cleopatra's Needle
Ice 3 pitches
WI3
Mummy II
Ice
WI4+
The Scepter
Ice
WI4
The Dribbles
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strawberry Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Fiver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blind Black Babies
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wizards Well
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Theoretically
Trad, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tough Trip Through Paradise
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Genesis I Genesis Area WI3+ TR, Ice
Genesis II Genesis Area WI3+ Ice
The Elevator Shaft Unnamed Wall WI3+ Ice
The Thrill is Gone Unnamed Wall M4 Mixed
Cleopatra's Needle Twin Falls Area WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Mummy II Mummy Area WI3 Ice
The Scepter Mummy Area WI4+ Ice
The Dribbles Dribbles Area WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 Crack Practice Rock 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Strawberry Crack Practice Rock 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Fiver Practice Rock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Blind Black Babies Practice Rock 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Wizards Well Practice Rock 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Theoretically Practice Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tough Trip Through Paradise Practice Rock 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hyalite Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Morrismc
Portland, Or
Morrismc   Portland, Or
Question: when the road is plowed is it possible to get a two-wheel drive car up to the Reservoir? Or is 4WD/AWD required? Nov 17, 2014
I'm going to be in the area until 1/26/14. If anyone needs an ice climbing partner, let me know. I'm bringing my gear with me. Jan 17, 2014
I'm in Bozeman for a couple days (jan 5 to 8ish) and would love to get out in Hyalite. Anyone around and want to climb? Thanks! Jan 5, 2014
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody. Apr 3, 2012

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