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Areas in Hyalite Canyon

Crocodile Rock 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Dribbles Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Fins, The 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Flanders 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Genesis Area 1 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 14
Headwall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Magic Wall, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Mummy Area 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 14
Overhangatang Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Palisade Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Practice Rock 21 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Scottish Cliffs 0 / 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 5
Swamp Rock 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Twin Falls Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 6
Unnamed Wall, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 12
Winter Dance Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 4
Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America. Hyalite Canyon also features some very high quality and popular gneiss rock climbing lower in the canyon at Practice Rock and Crocodile Rock, with a lesser visited volcanic area higher up in the canyon on the Magic Wall, among many other smaller obscure crags.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.

Getting There

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.
firstascentpress.com/winter…

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hyalite Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 67
Genesis I
TR, Ice
WI3+
 59
Genesis II
Ice
WI3+
 46
The Elevator Shaft
Ice
M4
 45
The Thrill is Gone
Mixed
WI5
 27
Cleopatra's Needle
Ice 3 pitches
WI3
 51
Mummy II
Ice
WI4+
 43
Scepter
Ice
WI4
 49
The Dribbles
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 54
5.6 Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
Strawberry Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
The Fiver
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Blind Black Babies
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Wizards Well
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 73
Theoretically
Trad, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Tough Trip Through Paradise
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Genesis I Genesis Area
 67
WI3+ TR, Ice
Genesis II Genesis Area
 59
WI3+ Ice
The Elevator Shaft Unnamed Wall
 46
WI3+ Ice
The Thrill is Gone Unnamed Wall
 45
M4 Mixed
Cleopatra's Needle Twin Falls Area
 27
WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Mummy II Mummy Area
 51
WI3 Ice
Scepter Mummy Area
 43
WI4+ Ice
The Dribbles Dribbles Area
 49
WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 Crack Practice Rock
 54
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Strawberry Crack Practice Rock
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Fiver Practice Rock
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Blind Black Babies Practice Rock
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Wizards Well Practice Rock
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Theoretically Practice Rock
 73
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tough Trip Through Paradise Practice Rock
 23
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hyalite Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody. Apr 3, 2012
I'm in Bozeman for a couple days (jan 5 to 8ish) and would love to get out in Hyalite. Anyone around and want to climb? Thanks! Jan 5, 2014
I'm going to be in the area until 1/26/14. If anyone needs an ice climbing partner, let me know. I'm bringing my gear with me. Jan 17, 2014
Morrismc
Portland, Or
Morrismc   Portland, Or
Question: when the road is plowed is it possible to get a two-wheel drive car up to the Reservoir? Or is 4WD/AWD required? Nov 17, 2014

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