Elevation: 6,664 ft
GPS: 45.49, -110.98 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 153,788 total · 1,236/month
Shared By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008 with updates from Matt Wenger
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer
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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America. Hyalite Canyon also features some very high quality and popular gneiss rock climbing lower in the canyon at Practice Rock and Crocodile Rock, with a lesser visited volcanic area higher up in the canyon on the Magic Wall, among many other smaller obscure crags.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.

Getting There

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.
firstascentpress.com/winter…

106 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hyalite Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 80
Genesis I
TR, Ice
WI3+
 65
Genesis II
Ice
WI2+
 54
Lower Green Sleeves
TR, Ice
WI3
 58
The Fat One
Ice
WI3+
 54
The Elevator Shaft
Ice
M4
 52
The Thrill is Gone
Mixed
WI5
 32
Cleopatra's Needle
Ice 3 pitches
WI3
 56
Mummy II
Ice
WI4+
 46
Scepter
Ice
WI3
 43
Hang Over
Trad, Ice
WI4
 57
The Dribbles
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 54
5.6 Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
The Fiver
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 36
Wizards Well
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Theoretically
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Genesis I Genesis Area
 80
WI3+ TR, Ice
Genesis II Genesis Area
 65
WI3+ Ice
Lower Green Sleeves Genesis Area
 54
WI2+ TR, Ice
The Fat One Unnamed Wall
 58
WI3 Ice
The Elevator Shaft Unnamed Wall
 54
WI3+ Ice
The Thrill is Gone Unnamed Wall
 52
M4 Mixed
Cleopatra's Needle Twin Falls Area
 32
WI5 Ice 3 pitches
Mummy II Mummy Area
 56
WI3 Ice
Scepter Mummy Area
 46
WI4+ Ice
Hang Over Genesis Area
 43
WI3 Trad, Ice
The Dribbles Dribbles Area
 57
WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 Crack Practice Rock
 54
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Fiver Practice Rock
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wizards Well Practice Rock
 36
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Theoretically Practice Rock
 74
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Hyalite Canyon »

Weather Averages

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ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody. Apr 3, 2012