Anarquía Creativa
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | -35.9656, -70.5556 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 511 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Nov 29, 2019 |
| Admins: | Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
This is a pretty cool line that follows an actual feature. It's the easiest line in the cave. (Further right, outside the cave, are some 6c/6c+ warmups.)
Climb the severely overhanging, left-arching, left-facing flakes to their top. Go over a roof (crux) and into a left-facing corner. Step right out of the corner, then make a big move up to a hold below the anchor.
Some additional beta: Use long draws at the start, especially on the 6th bolt below the crux roof. Knee pads are helpful, as there are several important kneebars (both left and right). The seventh bolt is really hard to clip on point, and most people skip it. I found hand jammies helpful, as the bottom flakes can be jammed, making this section much easier.



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