Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 38.50109, -109.63059
FA: Montoya, Wolfe, Marsters
Page Views: 743 total · 9/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Sep 30, 2019
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the easiest route to the summit. From the north-northwest side of the formation, located a large chimney. Climb a hand crack (5.7) to get into the chimney (3rd-4th class) and belay at the top of an apex (~90 feet). Down-climb from the apex to the eastern side of the chimney which is at this point a wide corridor.

Locate the obvious crack on the south side of the corridor and climb it. The crack climbs better than it appears. Use flared hand jams along with huecos and pockets to reach the top (5.10, 75 feet). Belay off hand sized cams. From the top of the second pitch scramble south to the summit.

To descend, use a bolted anchor off a ledge west of the crack at the top of pitch 2 to rappel back into the corridor. Then either down-climb or use a single pin anchor to rappel out of the chimney.

Protection Suggest change

BD C4 #0.3-5 and nuts. At least doubles in hand sized pieces.

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